If you're planning on doing your own oil changes or swapping out your brake pads, the first thing you need to nail down is the correct 350z jack point so you don't accidentally crush your floorboards or damage the rocker panels. It sounds simple enough—just lift the car, right? Well, if you've spent any time around the Z33 platform, you know these cars are surprisingly low from the factory, and they're even lower once you start adding coilovers or lowering springs. Finding a spot that can actually support the weight of the car without bending metal is half the battle.
The Standard Side Jack Points (Pinch Welds)
For most quick jobs like changing a flat tire, you're going to be looking at the pinch welds. These are the factory-designated spots located along the side sills of the car. If you feel around behind the front wheels or just in front of the rear wheels, you'll find a metal ridge. On the 350z, there are two specific notches in that ridge that indicate exactly where the jack is supposed to go.
Now, a word of advice: if you use a standard floor jack on these pinch welds without any protection, you're probably going to bend them. It's almost a rite of passage for Z owners to have mangled pinch welds because a previous owner just went at it with a raw metal jack cup. To avoid this, grab a rubber jack pad or even a slotted hockey puck. It fits over the ridge and spreads the load so you aren't putting all that pressure on a thin strip of metal. If you're using the emergency scissor jack that comes in the trunk, it already has a slot for this, but honestly, those things are "widow-makers" for a reason. Only use that if you're stuck on the side of the road.
Lifting the Whole Front End
If you need to get the front of the car on jack stands, jacking from the sides one by one is a massive pain. Plus, it's not the most stable way to get the car high in the air. Instead, you'll want to look for the central 350z jack point located on the front crossmember.
To find it, you'll need to peek under the front bumper. You'll see the engine's oil pan first—do not ever jack the car up by the oil pan. You'll crush it, starve the engine of oil, and have a very bad, very expensive day. Look further back, past the oil pan, for a heavy-duty metal beam that runs across the width of the car. That's your front crossmember.
In the center of that beam, there's usually a slightly raised or reinforced section. That's your target. The tricky part is that if your Z is lowered, your floor jack probably won't reach it. You might have to drive the front wheels onto some wooden 2x4s or low-profile ramps just to get enough clearance to slide the jack back there.
Lifting the Rear via the Differential
The rear is actually much easier than the front. The go-to 350z jack point for the back of the car is the rear differential (often called the "pumpkin"). It's that big, heavy hunk of iron between the rear axles.
Now, some people get nervous about jacking from the diff, but it's a solid piece of the drivetrain and can easily handle the weight. Just make sure you place the jack pad on the main body of the differential and not on the rear cover. The cover is usually made of aluminum and has cooling fins; if you put the weight of the car on those fins, they'll snap right off.
Once you've got the rear up by the diff, you can easily slide your jack stands under the rear pinch welds. This is the fastest way to get the back end in the air for an exhaust install or to tinker with your rear suspension.
Where to Put the Jack Stands
Finding a place to lift the car is only half the problem; you also need to know where to let it rest. You should never, ever work under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack. Jacks fail. O-rings leak. It's just not worth the risk.
Once you've lifted the car using the central points mentioned above, the best place for your jack stands is the pinch welds. Since you used the front crossmember or the rear diff to lift the car, the side pinch welds are wide open. Lower the car slowly onto the stands and give it a good "shake test" before you crawl under there. If the car moves or feels wobbly on the stands, stop and readjust. A 3,300-pound Nissan isn't something you want to be "mostly sure" about.
The Struggle with Lowered 350zs
Let's be real: a lot of 350zs are sitting pretty low. If you've got a front lip or you're tucked on coilovers, getting a jack to a central 350z jack point feels like a puzzle. I've seen people try to lift the car by the radiator support—please don't do that. It's not designed to hold the weight of the car and you'll just end up bending your core support and ruining your cooling alignment.
The best workaround for a low Z is a set of "helper" ramps. You can buy low-profile plastic ramps or just make some out of tiered pieces of wood. Driving up just two or three inches makes a world of difference. It gives the jack's handle enough room to actually pump without hitting the bumper. Another trick is to have someone slightly lift up on the fender (pulling by the wheel well, not the plastic) to give you that extra half-inch of clearance you need to slide the jack in.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
One of the most common mistakes I see—besides the oil pan disaster—is people trying to jack the car up using the suspension arms. The control arms on a 350z, especially the front ones, are made of aluminum. They are designed to handle specific loads during driving, but they aren't meant to have the concentrated weight of the entire car pushed onto them by a small jack cup. You can easily bend a control arm or ruin a bushing this way, which will lead to a car that handles like a shopping cart and eats through tires.
Another one is the floor pan. It looks like a nice, flat surface, but it's basically just thin sheet metal. If you put a jack there, you'll hear a sickening "pop" and suddenly you'll have a new hump in your floorboards right under your seat. Always stick to the reinforced structural points.
Final Safety Reminders
Before you even touch your jack, make sure the car is on a flat, level surface. Working on a slope is asking for the car to slide off the stands. Also, if you're lifting the front, make sure the rear wheels are chocked (put a brick or a wheel block behind and in front of the tires). Since the 350z is rear-wheel drive, the "Park" gear or being in gear only locks the rear wheels. If you lift the rear, the front wheels can still roll, so chocking the front is equally important.
Working on your Z can be one of the most rewarding parts of ownership. Whether you're chasing a weird rattling noise or installing a shiny new set of test pipes, it all starts with getting the car up in the air properly. Take your time, use a dedicated 350z jack point, and always double-check your stands. Your car (and your ribs) will thank you for it. Once you've done it a couple of times, it becomes second nature, and you'll be able to get the car up on all fours in about five minutes flat. Happy wrenching!